Olomouc, a town of 100 000 in a broad, ferthe stretch of the Moravia River basin, is one of the Czech Republic's most underrated places - a youthful, laid-back university town, friendly and cheap, with cobbled streets and the largest trove of historical architecture outside Prague - and hardly a tourist in sight. Despite a somewhat bedraggled, sooty face, it is certainly North Moravia's most beautiful town.
Legend says it was founded by Julius Caesar. After Moravia and Bohemia were united in the 11
th century, it became a major seat of administrative power, and in 1063 a bishopric. Olomouc looks fit to be a capital city, and looted by Swedish troops in 1645-50. It has been the seat of the metropolitan archbishop of Moravia since 1777. Industrialisation passed Olomouc by until well into this century.
The oldest part of the town now occupies the area on which formerly stood an eleventh century castle. In its place the royal clan of Premyslovci built in about 1110
the Cathedral of St. Wenceslas. During its last reconstruction,
tall spires in the new Gothic style were added to the cathedral. Historically valuable is the town's so-called Romance Palace. Only a wall now remains of the palace with the Romance style, two-part and three-part sectional windows. Their masterful rendition reflects a high level of artistry and craftsmanship.
The City Hall, formerly a mercanthe house, dominates the spacious square. The house underwent adaptations as early as 1378. Following the substantial reconstruction at the beginning of the 17
th century, the City Hall changed its appearance several more times, the last time in 1903. An astronomical clock is built into the alcove under the tower spire.
Another prominent feature of the square is
the Baroque pillar of the Most Holy Trinity. The stony monument with the exceptionally elaborate figurative decorations was designed by Vaclav Render. A number of exceptionally valuable buildings have been preserved in the centre of Olomouc. The church of St. Morris draws attention by its massiveness and prismatic spires. It contains an impressive triple-nave gallery and houses a Baroque organ with 10,400 pipes.
Preeminent Baroque decorations enrich the interior of the church of St. Michael whose early Gothic predecessor was rebuilt by G. P. Tencalla in 1676-1686. The power of the Jesuit order is reflected in the college buildings and the church of the Immaculate Virgin.